a beginning guide to designing a theatre room and star ceiling
I finally have a dream now, the dream came true.
It\'s not the best and not the most expensive, but it looks like a high end theater compared to $50 or more rooms.
I have a friend who plays in a home theater for a living.
I didn\'t know my room until it was almost finished.
He said it was one of the best theaters he had ever seen.
I knew I was right when he said that.
Anything worth waiting for is worth having.
Especially if you have passion for it.
The cost of my room was very cheap compared to other people who liked it.
About $4500, but not electronic equipment.
That was another $3000 and sold my first car since I was 16, but I now have a projector and a screen.
These are the things I need to do to get the room done.
I did everything I could to make the room look like a $50,000 theater but no cost.
It is possible to do so, but the research in your room must be there.
Before I started building the room, I looked online for a few years.
I also subscribe to electronic House and Home Theater Magazine.
The enthusiast is another good magazine, but I really want a photo of the theater room.
Don\'t pay attention to speakers, projectors, etc, which cost $20,000.
Focus on your thoughts and don\'t be discouraged by the cost you see in the Journal.
You don\'t need these things to build a great theater room.
Also, if you have some electronics now, make your electronics slowly as you go, only get what you need first and then deal with other electronics on the road.
I am using the KLH speakers that have been in use since 1995.
Then eventually upgraded the center speaker to Yamaha for $100 and upgraded to Yamaha 10 \"subwoofer for $10.
I\'m upgrading slowly. (UPDATE. . 03-01-12.
I put my Yamaha in the wall speakers now. They rock! )
Best of all, it all sounds great and it will surprise you when you hear it.
If you have a house, you know you are always doing something, but you live there and enjoy it when you do it.
The same is true of the family theater room.
I also built an 8\' concave star ceiling, designed a light box including 5 feet meteors, a milk passage flashing with the constellation.
For my birthday, the stars are all arranged on the night sky of October, and they face the right direction compared to the Arctic.
If anyone is interested, I will sell the Lightbox plan/parts list for The Lightbox, or I can build one for you, which is cheaper than what you ordered on the Internet.
I am working on a more compact design than the one in my theater room.
They are homemade but very durable.
It\'s been two years now.
The box will have the ability formula to shoot stars, milkyway and constellations, and you can blur the stars on the milkyway and Constellation separately.
Please let me know if you are interested.
My Instructure is not the best, but its design is mainly to give you a good overview of what you have to consider, hopefully it will have some insight into these ideas.
First of all, you need to build a star ceiling.
It is the focus of the room.
The theater will be built around the star ceiling.
I have 9 ceilings in my basement.
This is a huge help for allowing the recessed star ceiling.
Since my star ceiling is concave, it adds a whole new dimension to my theater and adds a 3D look to the planetarium.
It takes away the space of the ceiling.
The surrounding ceiling is close to 8\' high.
Sorry, I don\'t have a picture of the actual steps.
I may have some in the future.
I made a very simple frame drawing.
The star I built cieling has over 700 stars and over \'Feet of cable.
The idea is to have a light source at one end of the fiber optic cable and a star at the other end.
I can\'t fully explain the light box I built.
I plan to sell Plan/part list and fiber optic cable.
All the parts you can buy from your local store.
Please let me know if you are interested.
There are some welding and other tips when you build these.
I can provide the parts if you like.
On star cieling, I used four pine boards of 1 \"x12\" x8, a 1/8-inch slim board of 4\'x8.
This is a very flexible dark brown board that you can buy in the home renovation shop, and also uses 1/4 flexible drywall, drywall glue, drywall screws, and then tape the drywall
Special orders may be required for drywall.
You have to get wet and form a dry wall on the frame.
It\'s tricky to reach out your hand through it.
If you don\'t know how to tape and mud then it will be a huge challenge.
First, loosen all your 1 x 12\' and cut your arch as shown in the figure.
You will cut 2 out of 8 boards and make 4 out of them.
In the end, your frame will be like a circle in the shape of a \"pie.
Only 2 of the 8 \'Pine boards will not be cut.
Please pay attention to the \"gap\" in these plates on the drawing \".
You then glue the two 8\' plates together to form a \"\" pattern.
Be careful because these boards will be very fragile and broken due to the very thin central part.
You need some more-
4 Support and screw in to increase the strength of the center.
The second _ now adds a mid-fiber board to the outside, forming a circle around your 8\'song\' chart.
In order to do this, you will take the 4\'x8\' plate and cut the 4 Mid-fiber plates of 12 \"x8\' with a skill saw.
Remember, it will be very fragile.
You will then start with the 12 \"x8\" mid-fiber board and form it around the 8\' pine arch.
Let the fiber board naturally bend around the pine frame and help it by forming a circle around the edge.
It was tricky at first, but be slow and don\'t rush.
Take the time to get it done so you don\'t have a rectangular circle.
You will screw you to the mid-fiber board outside the frame and add another mid-fiber board until you have at least two laps around.
If your frame is still fragile, you may need another density board.
Twist all pine frame together and glue to MFD.
Third, now cut your other two arched pine boards into 4 identical short boards. I cut mine (I think)around 2-3 feet.
The reason I don\'t cut them in half is because you don\'t want 8 pieces of 1 \"pine to gather in the center of the star ceiling.
When you have a pine frame behind you, this will make it very difficult to poke hundreds of fiber optic cables.
You need some space in the center. .
The thicker the wood, the closer the wood is to each other, it is difficult to install hundreds of holes there for the stars.
Make sure you reinforce each joint with a tube of building adhesive and also use the \"L\" bracket in most corners.
Do not use building adhesive on Drywall/Wood connections.
This will make it difficult for the fiber optic cable to pass through.
Fourth, since you have completed the simple part.
Are you ready for the hard part? ? ?
You will now take two 4\'x8\' 1/4 curved drywall to form a concave part of the star ceiling.
You can make 4 triangular blocks.
Each triangle will cover 1/4 of the star ceiling and be mounted on the 8\' pine \'frame.
2 Convex triangles will be cut out for each sheat. Convex (
If you don\'t know)
It\'s opposite the concave.
If you think of a triangle, it has 3 straight lines and 3 points, but a convex triangle has 3 lines that bend outward to 3 points.
You need to do this because you are creating a surface in a circle.
There are a lot of geometry in this design.
You may be overwhelmed at this point, but this can be done.
The first time to get a perfect cut on the dry wall is to make a card board template first.
Before actually cutting the drywall, you need something that can be bent and shaped first.
Make the template and form it on the 8\' loose frame.
Bend it as much as you can.
Do this for four.
You really have to be creative here.
You have to install 4 drywalls on the frame, bend the drywall and install it on the 1 \"loose board.
This is a small space for error.
Don\'t worry too much if you don\'t have a perfect figure.
This is what dry wall glue and dry wall mud are.
You will fix your defects later, but you have to make your stars strong, so be as accurate as possible.
Now, to bend the drywall, you need a spray bottle with water to spray it when you press 1/4 drywall over the frame.
Hold it down slowly and don\'t put your hand in.
This is a very fragile process, but it can be done.
Patience is the key.
Keep the drywall damp, but do not soak the drywall.
When the drywall begins to deposit on the frame, it needs to dry.
You can\'t stick it and screw it before it dries.
Don\'t forget when you dirty the drywall with drywall tape.
When you dirty your drywall, remember that the thicker the mud you put on, the harder it is, the drywall of the fiber optic cable will poke holes and you are confused with tape and sandpaper (
Not drawn yet)
Then you can start designing the starry sky.
Now your fingers and thumb will be very sore. Get used to it.
I pushed more than 700 pins through 1/4 drywall and wood pine trees. It wasn\'t fun.
It may take you a few hours.
This is a slow process.
You need an art light projector to project the image onto the ceiling. (
I bought one at hobbyby for $30.
Wait for a 40% discount coupon for 1 item.
It will save you)
Tilt the ceiling up to project the star image.
Because the ceiling is too large, you may need to project half of the image on one side and then the other half on the second half of the star ceiling.
You have to re-align the image, which can be tricky.
I have a very detailed image of the star.
Please don\'t waste your time making up some random stars.
I have seen these, they are unrealistic to me. .
You need to buy at least 3 push pins in different colors.
1 for the police, 1 for the Galaxy, 1 for the meteor.
This way, when you plug in the fiber optic cable from behind the star ceiling, you will know which holes to expose.
You will order 3 optical cables of different sizes. . 25mm, . 50mm, . 75mm.
This is the secret of really getting 3D effects.
Another secret is that you need to blur the Galaxy and the price separately.
This will give you another 3D effect.
The design on my Lightbox will complete all of this.
For the Milky Way. 25mm only.
Shooting stars use all 3 from the start.
75mm was 1st. 5\', then .
Then, 50mm of the next 1.
25mm the rest of the run.
As the meteor passes through the atmosphere, each fiber becomes closer to it to slow the appearance of the meteor.
As the fiber becomes smaller, it also becomes darker and seems to burn out.
75mm optical cables.
Keep at least 2 \"exposed when plugging in the cable.
It is very easy to pull the cable.
Be very careful not to do so, otherwise you may waste hours of work.
I packed some cables with acid free tape.
Need to stick the cable with epoxy glue together.
Don\'t use glue like strong glue.
It will dissolve the cable.
You will then color the ceiling and then clip the fiber later.
Don\'t keep the fiber on the dry wall.
This can produce halo effects if you make them longer (atleast 1/2\")
I think this is helpful for 3D effects.
I just used a very good pair of scissors.
Don\'t buy expensive tools to hold the fibers.
I look great and the stars are very bright. SEVENTH___.
When you draw a line on the ceiling you need to keep the exact order of each cable, otherwise when you connect the other end to the light box it skips or doesn\'t arrange in order.
The order of the Milkyway fiber or constellation fiber in the light box does not matter, but it does matter for the star fiber taken.
Before you set the first nail for the frame, you have to put great ideas in your theater room.
I have never painted, nor have I ever drawn any plans with the architect.
But what I\'m doing is constantly thinking about what I\'m going to do the next day.
Think of my project and I will fall asleep at night.
I have been thinking and dreaming.
The problem is that if you are not careful, you will fall into the trap of having to redo something or unpack something to do it again.
You must know what you are going to do now, and also plan to upgrade your system in the future.
You have to make sure that if you are going to have a closed projector box like I do, then proper cooling is needed or you will overheat the projector.
I also designed my own fan with a hairdryer, but that\'s another note.
You have to consider all of your speaker wire placement, but you also want to run pvc pipes in your room so that you can run new wires on closed walls in the future.
Even if you may have a projection screen, run a socket behind the screen in case you want a flat panel TV in the future, you can connect the hdmi cable.
Your system also needs to have at least 20 am ps circuitry on your power box.
This will be a 12 KW grid line for 20 amp instead of 14 GW.
All these and more things to consider before you start designing your room.
A cleaner air filtration system can also be considered.
I hope there is little dust on my electronics.
I used 90% of my mind and 10% of my physical labor.
Of course, if you hire it then you don\'t need to do it, but it will also be very expensive.
When you frame in the room, you will want to make sure that each student is tight and there is nothing loose.
The bass vibrates everything.
Make sure that your duct is wound at least with tape before surrounding your room.
You can buy some special sound insulation to reduce the vibration but I didn\'t use them.
However, I did fill every inch behind the wall with open insulation.
Behind my 2x4 \"wall, I used 9\" thick insulation.
Insulation is not 4\"
If you don\'t know anything about the frame, go to the hardware store and buy a frame book.
You don\'t need to be a carpenter to do this, but you need to do it right and understand the basics.
You need to know the frame around the window (like mine)
And corner, door, put your wall on concrete, etc. . .
Keep in mind that if your drywall includes everything from the ceiling, then you may want to have an entrance hole to touch something on the ceiling.
Also waterproof your basement walls before doing anything, then cover all the way to the floor for a steam barrier.
Solid wooden door for sound insulation.
Not cheap hollow wooden door
My French door is solid.
Now do everything you can\'t do later.
Don\'t worry about spending money on things you can do later.
One more thing to keep all your 120 v ac lines at least 1 \'away from all your speaker lines.
If you have to go through them, then go through the wire at a 90 degree angle.
Don\'t run them side by side.
It can interfere with your speakers.
I was going to dedicate the whole wall to equipment.
But we also wanted a kitchentte when we finished the basement.
We finally came up with a good idea of sharing space with the gear.
Rack and kitchenette directly behind the rack.
In my kitchenette, We specially ordered cabinet doors that match the entire kitchenette.
They are access panels for my racks, but you will never know.
When you consider your equipment rack.
You want it to look very professional and organized on the front and back.
My equipment rack is definitely made by myself.
Although it looks like one, it\'s not a professional rack.
The front covers are all cut plexiglass and painted in satin black. Dont use gloss.
You don\'t want the screen to reflect.
I use Dremmel to router around Xbox.
It\'s not easy, believe me, and the plexiglass is crispy.
Behind the plexiglass is the standard wire rack you use in your wardrobe.
I was worried about the vibration noise but it worked very well.
The air is also well ventilated.
I made a removable adjustable wood rack myself and put it on it. I can re-
Adjust each shelf every 1 \"interval.
This photo is not shown, but all open spaces are now solid and closed with black plexiglass.
This shelf cost me about $60. $80. Not the $600-
$800 you want.
When you build the rack, remember that you want it to be big enough to upgrade more electronics in the future.
Design it has several extra empty slots.
Some professionals prefer that the shelf is not through the projection screen.
It creates light and distracts the attention of watching movies.
I thought a lot and the decision looked good.
This does not bother me at all.
This is the projector box.
This helps calm the sound of the fan, but also keeps the heat.
I ran the pvc pipe into this box.
The pipe leads to my firehouse, where a separate fan is used to blow cold air into the projector box.
Placing the fan in a separate room can reduce the noise.
I am also designing a simple filter to prevent excess dust from entering the theater through the cooling system.
When running a pvc pipe, use at least 3 inch of the pipe because it will start making more noise with smaller pipes.
I also used 2 computer fans in the electronics rack to help cool the electronics.
Make sure you provide \"clean power\" from the affordable surge protector \".
Do not use a $10 surge protection for a $3000 system.
Also, before building the projector box, make sure you know the size of the projector before building the projector box.
I know what I want before I buy an Epson projector.
The box is quite simple to make.
I just made the frame with 2x3 (
Yes, that\'s right)
Then cut 45 degrees.
The angle on the corner gives it a small design and then uses a dry wall of 1/2.
I taped all the corners and got dirty as usual.
I also used the outer horn beads.
I don\'t like metal corner beads.
On the concrete floor, I use dry. Cor.
It\'s not cheap, but is essential for warm floors, but more important for sound vibrations.
I built the step seat high enough so that I can crawl under the platform if I need to, and I have had it several times.
You need to make sound insulation under this space with insulation or other types of sound insulation.
I built the space below for the subwoofer, but it turns out that this is not the best place to place the subwoofer.
My submarine is under the shelf.
Like I said before.
Do your homework before you build it.
All in all, this is a good hiding place for the children.
In any case, the seat is sitting in the front and I light it down with some accent to get a red glow that looks cool.
If you do have accent lighting, remember that you want your room to be as dark as possible.
Red lights don\'t interfere with your eyes when watching a movie.
Remember to insulate the part under the floor. Very important.
This is the latest upgrade (03-2012)
From my 1993 KLH speaker to the brand new wall speaker Yamaha.
The sound is incredible, and the film is beginning to live.
Especially the high and middle tones.
I only have the full picture of rears, but you can see the unpainted frame of the box in front.
When you make a custom speaker frame box, first make the front frame for the speaker.
First make a cardboard template on the front face plate (
Not your speaker)
, Then you can play and find all the angles of the custom frame you want.
You need to stick the cardboard template on the wall.
Make sure it\'s safe in the position you want.
When it\'s safe, then you can make your external frame around the front panel.
You should make a heavy gauge paper template, force the paper to the position you want when you lean the heavy paper edge against the corner of the cardboard front template.
Don\'t worry about the exact corner now.
When you get the generic form from the heavy gauge paper template, you will find this.
After cutting, track down your heavy language template on the new cardboard template.
This will be more accurate and allow you to have a better, more reliable template on the wood to track.
You will make several fit and modifications before correcting.
Don\'t cut too much paper at a time.
You can always cut your template down, but you can never add it.
If you make a mistake, you can fix it with tape and then fix it againcut it later.
Stick all your templates together with adhesive tape and stick it on the wall to make sure everything fits.
After you have made the cardboard template, track and cut your medium fiber board wood frame.
With multiple composite oblique cuts and triangles, all my angles are very tricky.
After you make the cut, all your errors can be filled and polished with wood putty.
That\'s how I fixed it.
I also made a template for my speaker.
Not all of my speakers go through the drywall and I want to make the smallest possible hole in the wall.
As you can see in my photo, this is what I do with multiple holes.
I connected my frame with screws, different bolts, nuts and wall anchors.
You can see in a picture that I have sunk some screw holes on the front plate.
They need to be reversed so as not to interfere with the speakers being placed flat with the frame.
I also used a Dremmel.
These are some of my pictures.
I have finished my theater room and will add new pictures soon.
All in all, it was a dream come true and I did it at a fraction of the cost.
I\'m still slowly upgrading, but my new inwall speakers are nearing completion.
I have enjoyed it for more than two years.
Bluray is the best ever and I can\'t believe my eyes on some of the movies I watch.
There is also a bass vibration under my seat and you can\'t believe what the difference will be.
This is a new experience for audio sensors.
The screen is an elite screen with a ratio of 16: 9.
The cheapest one works well.
I\'m in K-seat. Mart. Yes, K-mart.
They are very, very comfortable.
This is one way I didn\'t spend $50,000 in a theater room.
My devices include: Pioneer VSX-
1120 reciverepson 6500UB projectorLG Blu-ray ChangerPyle playerKenwood 100 disc CD audio PT 1100 AmpClark synthetic TST329 gold tactile TransducerElite 16: 9 ScreenYamaha NS-
IW 960 center speaker-
IW 650 front and rear speakers syamaha YST-