chandelier barrel shade retrofit
Decoration, molding, etc)
A little outdated.
Especially when you start re-modeling around these features.
This is the case with our kitchen/dining/living room chandelier.
The shiny faux gold plating is not something we like, but the large chandelier, especially the new one, is very expensive.
After a little browsing on the internet, my wife came up with an idea to cover up the ugly side and save some cash.
My wife got a lot of credit for the project: Came up with the idea, picked the material and helped put it together.
The key size is the height and maximum diameter of the chandelier that is covered.
The height will control the plastic film used.
If this measurement is greater than the width of the standard plastic sheet, you need to find a different source, or put the plastic sheet on one side and cut it to the right length.
The diameter of the chandelier directly drives the minimum size of the embroidery hoop, and the total number of plastic panels required to pass through the circumference.
When getting the fabric, make sure there\'s a little extra on your end.
We ended up getting the exact length and we almost had to go back and buy more because the shop made such uneven cuts at the end.
Start preparing to remove chandilier from the ceiling.
Make sure to turn off the corresponding circuit breaker before starting to mess up any line.
Put down the fixtures, remove the bulbs and any loose or unnecessary cosmetics, and clean them up a little.
Since our fixture is this wonderful \"gold plated\" color starting after 80/90 s, I took a can of white enamel painting.
The most important part to draw is the top and chain visible from the second floor, as well as the lower side visible from below.
If you do paint, make sure you do enough ahead of time and it will be completely dry before you start painting shadows or re-hanging them.
First loosen the screws on the two embroidery rings and then place one on the floor.
Curl the plastic sheet carefully to fit the diameter of the ring on the floor and slide between the two bands.
Grab the second ring quickly and place it on the top of the paper in the same way as the bottom ring.
When you wear a second hoop, you may need an extra pair of hands to prevent the sheets from escaping.
Tighten the screws when the iron ring is in place.
Use the clip to lock one of the Rings in the appropriate position and then take out the screws that hold it.
Use some kind of pick or flat blade to pry open the block of the fixing screw.
When the block falls off and the area is cleaned, glue both sides of the ring in place using a strong epoxy resin.
Let the epoxy be completely fixed, then remove the clip and repeat at the other end.
When you take the epoxy out, you can also glue the overlapping part at the end of the paper.
This is not a structural connection, so it works well here even with hot glue.
It needs to be cut to the right size before you connect the fabric, or at least very close.
Spread the fabric so that the long direction extends from right to left.
The dimensions in the vertical direction need 1-
Each side is 2 inch higher than the barrel. That\'s 2-
More than 4 inch of the total.
In the horizontal direction, you want the length to be as close as possible to the perimeter of your bucket, but it\'s better to leave a few inches of excess at first.
When the barrel is completely dry, put it in the middle (vertically)
Fabric laid on one edge.
At this point, you can pin everything in place, or just start bonding, and the process is the same in either way.
First, fold the fabric over one edge of the ring and fix it to the top and bottom.
Now turn the barrel, tighten the fabric, fold the edges and nail it a little further away from the ring while doing the top and bottom.
Keep moving around the basket until the barrel is completely covered.
If you are satisfied with the look of it, then trim any excess parts from the length of the fabric and start to glue everything in place.
The hot glue works well here because it sticks well to the plastic and it penetrates the fabric to stay firm.
In our arrangement, the finished shadow will face a corner in a section where it cannot be really seen, so we do not care about the appearance of the seams.
Because we just stick the seams together and onto the barrel.
If that\'s not the case with you, then a more aesthetically pleasing solution may be needed.
You can fold or overlap the edges, glue them carefully, or try to stitch the seams with some sort of thread or hemp rope.
Similar to what you see in some leather products.
The way I originally wanted to support the barrel on the chandelier was to attach a lightweight wood rack in a similar design, but I didn\'t have the right material, so I improvised.
Using the extra material on the lid, I made a reverse sling that simply glued it to the inside of the barrel and ring.
It\'s been a few months and it still stays good, so it seems like a viable option if you don\'t have materials for rigid structures.
The strips of the slings are \"woven\" and can distribute the load evenly across all connection points, and they are also very wide for the same reason.
Be careful when gluing the straps in place and keep them as close to the ring as possible so they don\'t show up.
Since the straps are not rigid, the material is slightly stretched to make sure they are pulled tight and slightly below the top of the barrel.
Once the sling is complete and dead, it\'s time to hang everything back, but until then, unless you have easy access to the bulb from below, it\'s better to put it back.
Rewiring the chandelier can be a bit tricky as it comes with a big shade and you may need someone to support it while working.
Remember to turn off the circuit breaker before rewiring!
Once re-hung and rewired, adjust the shadow to make it hang straight, flip the circuit breaker and turn on the light.