DIY Interactive LED Coffee Table
I decided to make a simple but modern design and focus more on its features.
This amazing table creates an amazing atmosphere in my living room.
How does it work?
It\'s actually controlled by a custom
Android app so you can change the reaction and background color using your smartphone and also control the brightness.
I used a mid-fiber board as the upper part, Pine as the frame and the legs below, and glass as the top.
The interior consists of an Arduino Mega board, a Bluetooth device, an addressable led, an infrared proximity sensor, and a string of wires.
Here you can see the process of building, wiring and connecting all the components, as well as detailed instructions.
Don\'t forget to watch the video to experience the whole process of this build.
Here is my website article: the parts needed for this building that I cut off on the table.
The box is made of a medium fiber board: 18mm thick on the side and 8mm thick on the bottom and inside parts.
Most of the cuts I made with the table saw the fence.
For the larger part, I was unable to use the fence because it was very wide, so I fixed a piece of scrap wood on the workbench and used it as a guide.
To create a mesh in the box, I cut 12 4 cm wide mid-fiber boards.
The frame and legs under the box are made of pine planks.
The board is twisted so I need to do a lot of cutting and adjustment on the table saw and fence to flatten it and get nice smooth stripes from it.
It is very easy to repeat cutting with a block.
I installed the homemade block and did most of the repeated cuts.
In addition to the existing block, I also made another block by stuck a piece of wood on the fence.
In this way I can cut longer parts.
To make the mesh I mentioned earlier, first I need to make Dad on each piece.
Those dads will help me lock the pieces together and make a perfect square grid.
One of the easiest and fastest ways to make such a dad is to mark all the points of dad on a piece, wrap all the parts together with tape, adjust the blade height and start cutting.
Once I have finished all the cuts, I can continue to polish them.
I started with 80 sandpaper and went on with 120 until everything was fine and smooth.
I started the assembly process with the box.
I applied a wood glue to the corners of the mid-fiber plate pieces and clipped them together with some corner clips and a curved clip.
To secure the sides, I screwed a small piece of wood in every corner of the box.
Then I went down.
I applied a lot of wood glue and a bunch of screws to attach it securely.
To avoid any gaps, I used a wood filler to dry it.
During the drying, I made two holes in the bottom, one is the main power cord 6mm wide and the other is wide enough to fit the switch comfortably.
When I inserted the smaller mid-slim board in the box, I realized that it was twisted in the middle because it was very long, and to solve the problem, I also fixed two other small pieces of wood, to get better support.
Also, I added an extra 8mm height to those parts that came from the mid-fiber board, so that when I finally put the glass on top of the table, it would be flush with the sides.
I removed the excess wood filler with fine sand paper and wiped the dust on the surface with a wet rag to prepare for the painting.
All I need to do is draw a little inside the table, so I applied the tape on the side to get a clean and straight line paint line.
Then I started painting.
I use a combination of a roller for large surfaces and a brush for corners to apply an oil-based primer.
Then I hung it out.
Once it\'s completely dry, I polish it with my random track Sander.
I can paint now.
I decided to use the white oil based paint as it would match my interior.
I dried it and moved it to the rest of the table.
I will use to draw all the work of the white mesh.
I will connect these parts with pocket hole screws.
The pocket hole fixture I have is a very useful tool for making pocket holes.
The width of the bar does not allow me to make two holes on each side, but later I will install the corner holder if I need extra leg support.
To make a stronger connection, I used a wood glue and then I fixed the screws to the top of the frame because I didn\'t want the holes to be visible.
Here I have also applied a wood filler to fill the gaps.
After the wood filler was dry, I polished the excess wood and prepared this part of the table for dyeing.
Speaking of stains, I made a perfect contrast with white paint with rosewood stains.
Now I can finally assemble the whole table.
I put the top on the bottom, fixed it with some clips, and used a lot of countersunk screws for a better connection.
The electronic components required for this project are: Addressable LEDs, infrared proximity sensors, Arduino Mega boards, Bluetooth modules, 5 v power supplies and a string of wires.
All of this will be posted on the blackboard.
The board will be divided into 45 squares.
I used a template to drill 3 holes in those squares.
I will install the electronic parts into the hole with some wires.
I then sniped 45 individual LEDs.
I am cutting 5 cm long black and red wires and stripping off the insulation at the end of them.
With these wires I will be connecting LEDs and proximity sensors.
I repeat this step with green line.
Then I was welding the wires.
On the ground and 5 v pads, I weld the red and black wires, and on the data on the pads, I weld the green wires.
First, I removed the IR transmitter from the sensor.
The sensor does not detect the glass on the desktop in the normal position, because the glass does not reflect infrared rays.
The transmitter and receiver need to be placed at a certain angle so that the light can be reflected on the receiver on the other side.
So, I welded the transmitter back to the sensor, but this time it was welded with a 4 cm long single core wire on the Ethernet cable.
These wires can be easily bent and kept in the desired position.
On the other side of the sensor, I welded the black and red wires to the ground and 5 v pins with a longer gray wire on the output pins, it actually connects the sensor to the Arduino board.
In order to make this connection possible, I need to weld the needles at the end of the longer wires and insulating them with shrink tubes and lighters so that they can be easily positioned into the Arduino board.
The Led needs to be inserted into the hole I drilled before and stuck to the plate.
I then connect them by soldering the green lines in the middle of each LED, or welding the data output pads of the previous LED to the data in the pads of the next LED.
Once I \'ve done this, I\'ll basically do the same thing with the proximity sensor.
I will use hot glue next to the LEDs this time.
All gray wires will be inserted into the Arduino board, which will be in the middle of the back of the board.
Depending on the distance they are from the Arduino board, they have different sizes.
You can find the size I use in the website article.
The transmitter and receiver need to be placed up, so I made some adjustments carefully here.
I will start by connecting copper wire with hot glue and the length of the circuit board.
They will be used as power rails for LEDs and proximity sensors.
On the first track I will weld all the red wires and on the other track I will weld all the black wires (
Positive and negative).
In order to be able to weld, I need to remove the insulation of the copper wire by polishing the copper wire.
In the end, I connected all the positive and negative lines and added two wires that will go into the power supply.
I welded a 330 ohm resistor between the first LED and Arduino to reduce the noise on that line.
All wires and Bluetooth modules can be plugged into the Arduino board.
This circuit schematic will help you see how I connect everything together.
For more details on how to use Arduino in combination with these addressable led and Bluetooth devices, check out The Dejan Nedelkovski YouTube channel and his website howtomechatronics. com.
He did a tutorial on how everything works, including the source code and customization of the program
Before doing something else, I did a continuity test on the circuit using a multimeter.
The multimeter does not beep, which means that my connection is fine and I can continue to install the power supply at the bottom of the table.
I glued the two mid-sized boards to get it a better airflow.
I then plug the main power cord and switch into the hole and connect them to the power supply.
I plugged a plug at the end of the wire.
After that, I connected the medium fiber board and the last two wires to the power supply.
Now I\'m ready to program the Arduino.
The code is fairly simple, it just reads the proximity sensor, so it lights up a specific LED if an object is detected. I use a custom-
Built Android app for color and brightness control.
The data from the smartphone is received via the Arduino Bluetooth module.
You can find a detailed explanation of how this code works in Dejan\'s article.
Once I uploaded the code, I put the panel in the table.
I noticed that the power indication of the proximity sensor LED would interfere with the main LED lights, so I covered them with tape.
I just need to lock all the parts together in order to make the mesh, which fits perfectly.
Finally, I can put the matte glass on top of the table, turn on the switch and see how it works.
When I place the glass on it, one of the LEDs will not turn on and I need to adjust the angle of the transmitter so that it can reflect the light to the receiver.
Now, I finally finished this interactive coffee table.
The result is amazing.
I hope you enjoyed the instructions.
Don\'t forget to check out my videos and subscribe to my YouTube channel.