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DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon

by:Grade     2020-03-23
Note: You can skip the intro and go to step 1 if you just want to start building!
Trouble handling and cutting big sheets? Me too.
I don\'t have much room in my workshop to put the sheets, let alone cut them.
It hurts to see both the horse and the straight side.
Even the track saw and guide rail will take a little time to set up.
I \'ve always wanted to make a panel saw but looking around the store I really don\'t have a room to install it.
While fully functional devices like industrial devices are good, they are too complex and require too much investment time.
Frankly, I still have better things to do than spend a month doing a tool that will just tear off the sheets.
I think most of the people who are going to read this have a table saw and actually just need to adjust the sheets to manageable sizes.
I have a table saw that can tear the sheets, but it is also a small shop, it is still very difficult and requires a lot of lifting and manipulation.
Panel saws make more sense from a time and ease of use perspective.
I am looking for 20 years from now how I will work when I grow up and may not be able to do what I am doing now.
I don\'t need anything complicated, just fairly accurate.
I don\'t want to spend a lot of money on materials and just do one job.
It must also be compact.
So I started making a plate saw with normal easy to find material that can swing up and down from the ceiling and cut the full size 2400x1200mm paper length and width for less than $50 (Tools not included).
I would also like to build and install it before lunch time tomorrow.
All of this can be done with minimal tools.
Finally, I will also show some optional additional features to make it more practical.
Some of the background on design and functionality this aspect was inspired by the many other panel saw designs that I have incorporated into this design, but removed what I didn\'t need and simplified the design, use the least amount of material and some scrap I lay down.
All the inspiration comes from the public domain, but I don\'t include any pictures here.
By searching for DIY panel saws on your favorite engines or social networks, you can easily find their original designs.
The beauty of this design is that it actually uses the factory edge of the paper you are cutting.
So you don\'t need
Calibrate the fixture or have a lot of installation time to cut the paper (
Of course, if you cut off the square sheets in the first place, it could be a problem.
This is almost the cross between the panel saw and the track saw, and adds the extra benefit of the cross saw in a compact form.
It even has sacrifice support!
The carriages are portable and, if you wish, cut the sheets on the saw before you bring them into the shed without shelves!
I found that if the design is too simple, they will have many disadvantages.
Too complicated design requires only too much money and too much parts (
And a lot of time to build).
It\'s a good idea to fit into the wood car in the design, I thought about it, but came to the wall space --
At present, I don\'t have, and there is no place to put Wood trucks (currently).
As I make more space in the shed, I will discuss this again at a later stage.
Most rack designs use a mid-fiber board or Ply of 2x4 or full-
This is good and it will do the work.
Death and weight seem to be a problem for me.
Remember that I only have a footprint of a small workshop and I can\'t accept anything from more than 2 workshops. 4m wide.
The simplified design where you have a fixed stand and pass the paper through has come out.
So it\'s a fixed shelf with a moving car.
My other question isNo wall space.
Therefore, there is currently a fixed installation on the wall.
For me, it makes sense to install the shelf on the ceiling.
Since it is a rather old shed, I would like this shelf to be light in weight and compact in structure.
Most of the designs I \'ve seen use the full 2.
A 4 m rack made of 2x4 or similar material, the saw is cut into these.
I\'m not a fan of what you just did, which means you may need to replace the rack later --
My motto: build it for the first time.
A better system is to have cheap sacrifice pieces that you can replace regularly when needed.
They can also be part of the rack stabilization with just a few 2x4 (or similar)for the frame.
I also think the rack really doesn\'t have to be 2.
The sacrifice can be 4 m wide, reducing the overall cost of the rack.
If I go with a moving carriage, the footprints will only be a little larger than the 2 Th. 4m -great.
But when you look at the design, they are too complicated.
Use a special bearing, a hinge in a round bar style, or an expensive T-Track.
So, if I\'m going to go this way, the carriage and the sled have to be cheap and stable.
I have worked on a lot of methods to move the carriage and sled with bearings, aluminum or steel passages, door rollers.
The more I study it, the more complex it is and the higher the price.
Over the years, I used a simple fence on a saw without any problems, so I thought the same way.
Somehow several slots are used to support a sled that can easily turn 90 degrees.
Of course, if you only use slots, you also need to stop the sled guide from bending outward
I was thinking of a larger rectangular mid-fiber board or laying layer, using the factory edge and a few pieces above on both sides to prevent the saw and the sledge from popping up.
It may need a lock when the sled side is cut in length, so that the furniture nut and hand Bolt can fill this function.
The carriage can use its own edge to slide along the top of the paper or add another support to the bottom just to prevent the carriage from moving from 90 degrees to the sheet.
I might use a few quick release clips to help with any horizontal cutting.
Materials: 1/2 sheets 18mm (3/4\")MDF 2400x600 (
You may not use it all)1/2 Sheet 9-
12mm medium fiber board 2400x6004x70x35 loose nail screw or DingTalk s2 small gate hinge screw
Cutting of ply or MDF2 sheets on A4 paper (
Recyclable-not important)
4 small toggle fixtures (
Available on ebay)
Wax tools for soap or candles: Saw (
You can also use it for your panel saw
The drill and screwdriver move the tape measure the square digital clamp of the right angle group (
You can use a ruler, but you can\'t be accurate.
For setting blade alignment)
The clip is manually punched by cutting the holder of the frame from a 70x35mm pine tree.
Obviously you can make the rack small or large as you need it.
This is 2 metres high, 1. 2m wide.
Basically you need two columns (2m)
And two crossbars (1. 2m each).
I also added another support in the middle to provide some additional stability.
Add some rebates to the wood to help the frame stop twisting (
Pine trees notorious for distortion).
As in Figure 1, pass the saw through, quick rebate, remove the cut
Cut out the rest.
Once you do this, stick the frame together with glue and screws and check that it is square by measuring the diagonal.
Cut some 45 degree brackets from the scrap layer and then screw them to the back of the frame with glue to keep the square (fig 3 + 4).
Now use your round saw to tear the 18mm mid-fiber board into 40mm pieces, as shown in figure 5 (
Make them a little extra large so that they can be trimmed on the table later.
Do as much as you want.
I ended up tearing 5 @ 40mm x2.
4 m for paper support and then tear 4 @ 40mm x2.
4 m, then cut in half (1. 2m)
Used to sacrifice a single bracket.
The bottom support is 40mm 18mm (58mm)
Because 18mm will be the biggest piece of paper I \'ve torn off on this panel saw.
Once you tear everything up, I use the table saw (Fig 6)
Wash and trim everything to the same width
40mm wide because I never really trusted the saw with the guide. The next step is to drill some mounting holes on the sacrifice bracket mounting piece and screw them to the frame
There are two holes at both ends and one in the middle.
Do one first and then serve as a guide for the rest.
I also used a counter.
The sink is also-
Figure 7 measure from the bottom of the rack before installing these brackets to obtain a uniform spacing of the brackets.
Now glue the top brackets and screw them where you mark them (Fig 8).
I also make sure that the top support is consistent with the bottom of the rack so that I can use the top support as a guide for the saw rack if I want.
It\'s worth sticking the stand out and I also put a stand in the middle of the rack so that if I just cut 600mm of the paper cross, I can move the paper up.
You will notice that the upper half of the rack has more brackets than the bottom.
In Figure 9, place a cross support guide rail on the rack bracket, and then screw the parts at the bottom on it with glue
Make it good and tight (
But not too tight.
You want to take these out again-
They are sacrifices to remember)? ?
Clean up any spilled glue because you don\'t want it to interfere with your stand.
Once you have all the brackets, you can install the rack to the ceiling (Fig 10 & 11)
With hinges.
These are mounted on the beams that you attach to the ceiling.
Figure 12 shows the rack with a single stand with sacrifice and replaceable.
I just fixed the shelf to the ceiling with a fence line bent on the hook and a ring attached to the screw.
If you think the rack may bend under weight, you can use two.
The shelf ended up a little heavier than I thought!
Cut about 12mm of the fiber board (fig 13)
Two straps about 40mm wide
The caddie I made is about 450mm wide.
It will depend on what brand of round saw you decide to use, and the length of the base plate.
I used the old Dewalt for my first table-
It\'s still good.
Too heavy for general duties.
You also need a square part to fit between the rails to secure the saw in place.
I just widened it 80mm. 40mm per side)
More than base caddies.
Connect one of the rails with glue and nails to the factory edge of the medium fiber board (Fig 14).
Wipe any excess glue on the track because you don\'t want any runners that are tied or worn out prematurely.
Turn the caddie frame (Fig 15)
Put the caddie base in.
Between the rails, then nail the other rail at one end with glue (Fig 16).
Move the caddie to the middle and end while nailing the guide rail in the appropriate position (Fig 17 & 18).
Add some soap or wax to the top edge and side of the caddie to help the caddie slide the guide rail separately (Fig 19).
Cut one or two sheets of paper into strips and place them on top of the guide rail (Fig 20)
Then screw the rail cover (Fig 22).
See if the caddie moves freely but comfortably.
If needed, use an extra sheet of paper below to make the spacing.
Until the caddies slide well.
Figure 21 shows how many gaps are between the guide rail and the saw seat.
Use the bottom plate of the saw, align it with the caddie base and connect it using screws or screws and nuts (Fig 23).
It is important to align the saw blade with the saw seat.
For this purpose, from the front of the blade to the outside of the substrate, and then from the rear of the blade to the substrate (Fig 26+27).
Use the adjustment screw on the Saw (Fig 25)
, Adjust it until the measurements are the same before and after (Fig 28).
For this purpose, it is convenient to have an electronic clamp set.
Alternatively, you can use a rule to get as close to it as possible.
Upon completion, you will also need to set the saw blade angle of the saw to be 90 degrees with the base.
Use a fixed square on the blade (Fig 24)
, Adjust the saw cone angle until the blade is 90 degrees with the base.
Most saws also have a stop hex screw for easy adjustment of return angle
Adjust this once your saw is at 90 degrees.
Once the installation is complete, the saw bolt onto the base caddie, you can clip the saw to a set of saws right away and make an initial cut on the base caddie.
Do it slowly with blade rotation.
If you do not remove enough material initially, the blade will rub the wood, causing the blade to heat up and most likely distort.
The runner is just a 70x35 pine tree that stretches along the top edge of the sheet you are cutting.
Should be around 900mm.
Long enough, so the caddie system has an initial lead and lag for taxiing forward.
First of all, you need to make sure that the caddie is at 90 degrees with the paper being cut.
Connect one end of the caddie to the caddie guide in the corner (Fig 29)
And use a long straight Square to align it with the plate to be cut (
I made a 1200mm long one)(see Fig 32)
, Draw a line under the worksheet (Fig 30).
By reversing the square and making sure the lines are the same, it\'s also a good idea to check that the square is actually a square.
Use the fixture at the bottom of the paper to align the caddie with the line (Fig 30 + 32).
Once you\'re happy, put a screw in the caddie guide and put it in the right place.
Once this is done, you can remove the board and move the caddie to the center of the rack (
Remember that the top rail I said can also be doubled as a guide)?
Now cut into the caddie and run the saw straight down until the end of the track.
One thing I realized when I did that was that I saw dust at the bottom of the parking.
So I removed the end support and installed a pin so that the dust on the saw could fall freely (Fig 33).
I also installed a second support bracket on the back of the caddie at the top to help support caddie and can separate caddie if I need to adjust caddie alignment.
To prevent the saw from moving, I installed some small clips on the side of the caddie base.
If you turn the caddie 90 degrees for horizontal cutting, there are also clips to hold the caddie in place (Fig 36).
The last picture is the final product.
The overall unit cuts are good.
There are some restrictions on this setting --
Space problem.
When the base falls on the floor, you have to make sure it is not distorted, otherwise you will not be able to sit on the sheets that are cut directly on the shelf.
You also can\'t use the top support rail as the guide to cut the whole piece of paper in a half-length way (
Mainly the idea of Xiao Zhang).
Because they are thinner (18mm)
, They will drooping under weight, so do not give an accurate cut on the outer edge.
However, you can still use the paper\'s own factory edge to cut the paper length down the guide rail.
I also suggest that if you are doing a length cut, you should clip the end edge to the top to prevent the paper from falling onto the blade when the saw reaches the end.
The support rails at the front are easy to replace, but may not be in the slot all the time.
If this becomes an issue, I might insert some screws into the frame to fix them.
Future improved bottom support tracks can be moved to the center position to cut smaller sheets at waist height.
However, I might make another support rail for the bottom with a 90 degree part with some rollers on it.
I either make the sleeve roller with the drilled pin and PVC pipe or check the plastic wheel.
I also plan to do some stop devices that slide to the center support guide rail to achieve repeatable vertical cutting.
I will also add a tape cut guide on the X Y axis to facilitate precise cutting.
The advantage of this unit is that you can install it on the ceiling or you can install it on the wall.
This may happen to me when I make more space in the shed and get a spare wall.
Finally, I might also make a video of how it works and builds. S and construction.
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