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home clinic; making repairs to a ceiling fixture when its bulb falters

by:Grade     2020-03-13
Written by JOHN wardebaul 1994, this is a digital version of an article in The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
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Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes. com.
Traditional ceiling
Lamps and lanterns with incandescent lamps can usually work normally for many years.
However, repairs can be made when the top light flashes, crackles or does not turn on.
Check the bulb first.
Make sure the fixture is closed and then stand on a safe platform like a ladder, removing the globe or shadow of the fixture.
Pass it to the assistant or set it up before proceeding.
When using a ladder, climb from the top no higher than the second step.
If the bulb is loose, please tighten it and try the switch again.
If the problem persists, make sure the switch is off, remove the bulb and change to a new one.
If the lamp does not work with the new bulb, check whether the circuit breaker or fuse of the control fixture trip or fuse.
This often happens when the bulb burns when it is turned on.
For safety when resetting a circuit breaker or replacing a fuse, stand on a dry surface.
Ads perform all tasks with only one hand, including opening the service panel.
Put the other hand in your pocket, or hold the plastic flashlight with it, so it is insulated.
If the circuit breaker fuse is not faulty or the bulb is working properly but flashes or breaks, try to clean the socket of the light fixture.
Make sure that after the switch is off, use a knife or fine-
Sand sandpaper scraped the metal labels inside and at the bottom of the socket until they glow.
Blow the residue out and then pry the label up a little so that it stays in good contact with the bulb.
Reinstall the bulb and test the fixture again.
Check the wiring if the lights are still not working.
For this step, turn off the power of the circuit by tripping the circuit breaker or removing the fuse.
If the fixture is controlled by a wall switch, turn on the switch to ensure accurate testing.
Remove and drop the fixture from the ceiling.
If you see the wires loose, you find the problem.
But before proceeding, further confirm that the power is off by using a voltage tester, a small bulb with two wires connected.
Testers cost about $3.
Unscrew the plastic cover covering the joint that connects the fixture line to the ceiling line.
There are usually two joints--
One white line and the other black line. Single-
There may be no connector for the bulb porcelain fixture.
The ceiling wire is connected directly to the terminal screw.
Be careful not to touch the end of the wire.
Place the probe of the tester on two joints or the bare end of the ceiling wire connected to the two terminal screws.
Then place one probe in turn on the metal part of the outlet box and the other on each ceiling line.
In these tests, testers should not shine.
If so, find the power supply, usually another circuit, and turn it off.
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Reconnect any loose splicing wires by reversing them clockwise with other or other wires in their group.
Even if there is no loose wire, twist each joint firmly clockwise to restore any weak connection.
Then reinstall the plastic cover by screwing the plastic cover on the joint until the plastic cover is tightened and there is no bare wire end display.
Using a fixture with a terminal screw, reconnect the disconnected wire by winding the screw clockwise and firmly tightening the screw.
Check whether the two screws are tightened.
The advertisement requires that the fixture be connected to the ceiling and the power supply be restored.
If the problem persists, there may be a failure of the wall switch (if any;
Otherwise, replace the fixture.
Traditional ceiling lamps can be replaced easily with track lighting.
The standard track length is 2, 4 and 8 feet and can be connected or formed in a straight line L-, U-
And other shapes.
Some kinds can be added to form the cross.
The track function in the rail lighting system is similar to the extended wall socket, allowing the lighting equipment to be connected anywhere along its length.
As with conventional fixtures, power is provided by connecting the track to the ceiling wiring.
Many rail systems can only be connected to the ceiling at one end, but some rail systems can be connected at any point.
The rail lighting kit comes in a complete direction, but the basic and some useful tips are: the rail lighting is connected to the ceiling fixture at one end, connecting the wiring connector or the live end to the track first, and the mounting plate covering the ceiling electric box opening.
If the instruction specifies, attach the short-length braids to the terminal screws at the live end and guide them through the opening in the mounting plate.
Mark the center line of the derailed track on the ceiling with chalk lines.
Then keep the track in place and use it as a guide for fasteners (usually toggle bolts) to mark holes.
Loosely mount the track in order to connect the line on the live end to the line on the ceiling.
Tighten the fasteners and install the lighting.
For rail lighting that can be connected to the power supply at any time, first connect the live end to the ceiling wiring.
According to the design, before the joint is carried out, be sure to pass the wiring of the live end through the mounting plate.
Mark the ceiling of the track and then install it with toggle bolts or other fasteners.
To locate the track, you will most likely have to go through the track between the wires leading from the charged end to the ceiling.
After fixing the track, connect it by inserting the live end into the slot of the track.
Cover plates are usually provided to hide the live end and any exposed wires.
Connect it and install the lighting.
A version of this article was printed on page CN14 of the National edition on April 10, 1994 with the title: Family Clinic;
When the bulb of the ceiling lamp shakes, repair it.
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