How To: Stained Glass
While it does require a special set of tools and equipment, once you reach out to them, you will find the process of turning your design into gorgeous stained glass pieces very simple!
When we were 8 and 10 years old, my brother and I started working in stained glass around my father, so I can confidently recommend this to all ages and skill levels.
The colorful glass contains a wide variety of very interesting materials.
Here are some of the essential elements to get you started.
You can add to your collection at any time (
Believe me, it\'s hard not to do that! )
It is best to find a professional supplier of colored glass for these materials. Glass (obv.
It\'s hard to do glass projects without glass)-
There are so many kinds of glass to choose from!
I used a combination of striped glass and textured glass in this project.
When you visit a supplier of colored glass, you will see the vast glass world! Glass Cutter -
These also have a variety of styles.
Here you will see a hard alloy wheel knife with a storage tank on the handle.
I like to use a pistol, too.
Grip cutter with the same function but more ergonomic design. Cutting Oil -
Need to extend the life of the glass cutting machine, improve the score quality on the glass pliers
Don\'t use regular house pliers for this!
There are two kinds of pliers used in colored glass.
Grozer pliers are designed to break the glass and bite off the small edges.
The running pliers are designed to break long cuts on the glass. Copper Foil -
Some stained glass works use lead, a lead channel that gathers pieces of glass together.
This is a completely different technology than the one I showed you.
This technology uses a copper foil with adhesive on one side to hold the glass sheet together.
The copper foil has a variety of widths to accommodate glass of different thickness.
Copper foil is material for welding glass!
Copper foil is also provided with silver or copper lining.
This is important for the design of your work.
If you are using transparent glass, you can see the back of the foil.
I used silver back foil because I wanted the finished product to be silver.
If you wish, there is patinas that can change the finished color of your solder. Soldering iron-
You need a soldering iron designed for stained glass, at least 75 watts.
There are a variety of tips here.
I prefer extensive welding techniques for most projects. Solder -
Tin is a mixture of tin and lead.
The solder with higher tin content has a lower melting point, the flow speed will be faster, and the finish will be more silver.
Lead-free soldering is also available. Flux -
To provide flux in the form of liquid or gel (
I found this gel easier to use)
, Used to assist the welding flow between copper sheets.
Before each welding, brush each piece of copper surface with a flux for the best results. Grinder -
If you are just starting out and don\'t want to make a big investment, you can use the diamond sand after cutting to cut the sharp edges of the glass.
If you have access to one, I recommend an electric glass grinder that can do the job quickly. It has a water-
The cooled grinding wheel can quickly grind rough edges and even help to achieve shapes that are harder to cut. Safety glasses-
As long as they fully protect your eyes, this will be done by anyone of any type.
When you cut and grind the glass, its small spots fly everywhere!
For this reason, I also recommend long sleeves when using an electric grinder. Safety Gloves -
I have never used gloves in the process, but after counting the wounds of my fingers and hands from the last item (
In double digits)
Next time, I\'m going to give a shot to latex gloves.
Please let me know your experience if you have tried this method! Lightbox -
The light box will help you transfer your design from paper to glass.
If you don\'t even have one, cut the paper sample and leave a trace on the glass.
The first step is to know what you want to do!
I decided to use only the glass on our hands instead of going out and buying anything new.
This limits the size and theme of my design.
Because we have some lovely red
Orange pieces of glass, I decided to paint my favorite flower --the poppy!
I Googled images of poppies and made some thumbnails of some of the photos I saw.
I decided this image from my final design.
I had to simplify some edges to make it work in glass.
Then I picked up the thumbnail I made and zoomed it up to the actual size of the finished product.
Again, this size is determined by the amount of glass at hand.
This thumbnail is made of graphic paper. to-working-
The design process is easy.
Each square in the thumbnail becomes three squares in the final design. Easy!
Since I have access to the light box, I can put the pattern under the glass sheet and trace it directly to the glass.
I followed the pattern with a thick black marker.
Then I trace the shape back to the front of the glass with the same pen (
You can buy professional pens for this, but Sharpie can also).
It helps to number them when you have a lot of similar works so you can remember where they are going.
You can see how I did this with clear glass squares in the last photo.
Use a ruler to align the glass cutter so that the wheels align to the line you are trying to cut.
Start at the edge of the glass and score on the line you want to cut with a single action.
Don\'t stop in the middle of a piece of glass to start scoring.
The glass is always broken on the whole piece.
Where you rate the glass with your cutter controls where the break occurs.
If you are using a textured glass, create the score on the smooth side.
You can break the score by holding the score on both sides and separating it by hand.
Or, apply pressure on the score line with pliers.
Align the middle of the pliers with the line you are trying to break and squeeze.
The glass will break down along your score line!
Because sometimes the glass breaks in its own direction, the curved lines are harder to cut.
Keep your curve gentle and you should have no problem.
Score the curve in the same way as a straight line-
From one side to the other
Walk along the line of the curve.
I prefer to use pliers to add pressure to the scores of the bends to help them break.
Another technique is to tap the score line using the end of the tool.
It will help to break the glass.
When cutting a deep curve, attack it as a series of shallow curves (
See the last picture).
Otherwise, the glass may fall off in its own direction.
You can use the grinder to deepen the curve if needed.
Now that you \'ve cut all the parts, it\'s time to clean up the edges and make sure they all fit together.
I put the pieces back on the pattern on the light box so I can draw the correction line as needed (
See the second picture).
I took the pieces to the grinding wheel and gently ground off the rough edges and fine thingsAdjust the shape.
Be patient with this.
The excessive pressure on the grinding wheel will lead to glass debris!
To ensure that all of my work is closely integrated as expected, I have built a framework around them (
See final picture).
This also helps to ensure that the workpiece remains flat and square during welding.
More than once, I created something (unintentional)
Interesting tilt and tilt because I forgot this step!
The next step is to set off all the pieces.
It\'s quite easy and it\'s quite time. consuming.
The more time you spend frustrating your work, the better the final welding result.
It\'s easy to get copper foil tape off-
Focus on here and there, so pay special attention to balance.
Once you have determined the appropriate copper foil thickness for your glass, peel off the protective liner on the copper foil.
Place the glass on the tape and press firmly along all the cut edges.
Rub the edge of the foil along the front edge and rear edge of the glass with a sturdy instrument (
This soft pencil does not match the hard corners of the glass).
Pay attention to making sure the tape sticks together very firmly or even together.
If it\'s tied up, just tear that part off and start over.
You can always overlap the copper foil, but be careful to align the edges, otherwise the edges will appear when welding!
Welding takes place in a series of steps.
First stick your pieces together, then tin at the seams, then add the beads.
Before welding, flux must be applied on copper foil.
To fix the welding piece in the appropriate position, apply the point flux in the desired area and melt a small piece of flux at the top.
Since I used two different widths of glass, I originally nailed and welded this piece of glass from the back so that the front would be flush.
Once all the parts are stuck together, you can tin at the seams.
It just means that you apply a thin and flat tin paste to all the seams, completely covering all the copper foil.
Be sure to apply the flux at all seams first.
Bead welding is a smooth, slightly circular welding Flow used to create a beautiful finish.
All you need to do is apply bead welding on the front of the finished product, because tin welding is enough to keep the back together.
To make bead welding, apply a new flux at the seam of the tin plating plate.
Melt more solder on the seams.
Run the soldering iron back and forth along a short distance to form a molten soldering seam.
Once a section is completely melted, gently lift the soldering iron from the workpiece to form a smooth and shiny bead.
It just needs practice.
Although it was not necessary, I did it with the lead channel.
I cut the channels to fit the three edges of the workpiece and weld them together at the edges and weld them to the glass sheet at each intersection.
It\'s like welding copper foil.
In order to hang the workpiece, I weld on the two-ring tin-plated copper line (
See the second picture).
It is a great force to keep this piece of weight.
Finally, clean your item with a mild detergent or glass cleaner and show it in a wellLighting environment.
I hope these basic steps are enough to encourage and motivate you to try the stained glass.
From here on, create a variety of decorations and three-
Have fun, be sure to share your own work in the comments below!