how to tile a ceiling
If there is no sound on the surface of the ceiling or there is an open beam (
The horizontal supporting element usually from the wall to the wall)
Nail the tile on the edge strip (
Fine wood strips used to support the finished surface of the room).
Alternatively, if the ceiling is high enough, you can lower the ceiling with a suspended ceiling system.
To determine how many tiles you need, multiply the length of the room by its width to get square feet and then add about 10% to the trim and error.
To calculate how many boxes of tiles you need, divide the square feet by the square feet of tiles in the box.
If the room is not a square or a rectangle, draw a sketch of the room on the graphic paper, representing a square foot with each square on the paper.
Then calculate the square to determine how many tiles you need.
Apply the tile directly to the existing ceiling surface with adhesive: Step 1: Find the center of the ceiling, measure and mark the midpoint of each wall.
A piece of chalk
Relative to the frame line between the midpoint and catch the chalk line.
Repeat in another direction.
The place where the line crosses is the center.
Make sure the lines are formed by using Carpenter square 90-degree angles.
Step 2: Measure the ceiling to determine the width of the tiles around the edge of the room.
To calculate the width of the border tile, note the inches measured by the last full foot in each direction--
5 inch, for example, from 17 feet 5 inch. Add 12 inches --
The width of a whole tile--
Divided by 2.
The result is the width of the border tile at each end of each row of tiles laid in that direction.
For example, if the inch is measured at 5, the row border tile in the measurement direction will be 8 1/2 wide.
Calculate the width of the border block along both directions.
Step 3: Start with a corner of the room, measure the width of the border tiles in each direction and mark these points on the ceiling.
Through each of these points, capture the chalk line at right angles on the ceiling, ensuring that each of the two new lines is parallel to a chalk line in the center of the ceiling.
Step 4: Set the corner brick first.
Mark it with a pencil as the measured size.
Cut the first tile face up with a sharp tool knife and a ruler.
The ceiling tiles are locked together with the edges of the two grooves and the edges of the two shades.
The hue edge of the starter tile must be oriented towards the center of the room, so the groove edge is cut to trim the size of the corner tile.
The border tiles along the two start walls will be trimmed along the edge of the groove.
The tiles, which borders the two far walls, will be cut along the edges with distinct tones.
Step 5: apply the adhesive to the back of the trimmed corner brick with putty knife, apply the adhesive in the center of the tile, about 1/2 in front of each corner.
Place the tile in the corner, highlight the edge and slide it into the position inside the two chalk lines.
Put it firmly in place.
Step 6: cut border tiles from corner tiles along two corner walls.
When you work, slide the groove edge of each tile onto the exposed tongue of the last tile to lock the tile firmly together.
Fill border tiles with full-
Adjust the size of the tile with an expanded wedge pattern, gradually extend the row of the border tile, and expand the tile to cover the entire ceiling.
Note: To work around the fixture, keep the tiles on the ceiling before applying the adhesive.
Mark and cut off the part to be removed, then apply the adhesive and slide the tile in place.
Step 7: continue to set up the tiles until you reach the far corner of the room.
Before cutting the border tiles of the two distant walls, measure the gap left by the last complete tile.
Mark and cut border tiles one by one along these walls to make sure they fit the gaps.
Step 8: install the Bay shape along the edge of the ceiling.
Some ceilings are too uneven or badly damaged to install tiles directly on them.
You need to flatten things with a fur strip.
The next section will show you how to do this.