Iron Pipe Lamp With Cast Concrete Base
I \'ve also been seeing cool stuff coming out of the concrete and I want to try it while I\'m there.
That is to say, I am not a professional electrician anyway.
I\'m just a DIYer. I want to try this one.
I have read a lot of these and read a lot of people\'s concerns about safety issues with poor construction quality, hopefully I cover all of them here.
Be careful not to do anything you are not comfortable with, and if you are not 100% sure about your own safety, then do not.
That is to say, this is my opinion of the iron pipe lamp with concrete base.
I want to use 3/4 iron pipe and I want to add a valve to make the valve work.
The required parts and tools are as follows: part: 3/4 bottom plate (1)3/4\" close (1)
90 degrees elbow 3/4 \"(3)
3/4 90 degrees Street (1)
3/4 \"x4\" tube nipple (1)
3/4 \"x 5\" tube nipples (1)
3/4 \"x 6\" tube nipples (1)
3/4 \"x 8\" tube nipples (1)
3/4 \"x 1/2\" reduction of coupling 3/8 \"x 6\" tube nipples (1)
3/8 90 degrees Street (1)
1 \"x 3/4\" Hex bushing (2)
1 \"brass gate valve (1)
Small pieces of the 1/4 \"ID trading rotary switch (1)
1/8 \"female x 1/4\" male brass accessories (1)
1/4 \"female x 3/8\" male brass accessories (1)
1/2 \"x 1/8\" lamp nipples (1)(Hollow)bulb socket (1)
I ground 3 wire Portland cement with the thislamp line (
I use something white)
Paint for all kinds of screws, fasteners and selection tools: Tools department really don\'t need much. . .
Iron pipes and concrete are easy to work with wire cutter/Peel soldering iron/hot gun/heat shrink (
Or wire nuts and electrical tape)
First of all, you will want to find something suitable for use as a mold for casting base.
I used an old Tupperware I lay down.
** If you use something relatively fragile like Tupperware, make sure your mold is placed on a flat level when the concrete is set, otherwise, the weight of the concrete will distort and distort your mold, in order to keep your lights level, you have to do a lot of extra work.
I want to easily replace or repair any of the electrical components in it if I need to, so I put some pipes into concrete and let the wires go through.
Assemble 3/8 \"x6\" iron pipe with 3/8 \"90 degree street elbow.
This will be the way your power cord actually powers the lights.
In retrospect, I should use a normal 90-degree elbow instead of a street elbow.
The opening at the elbow of the street was tight enough that I could hardly get the wire up.
I should also run the wire before laying the pipe with concrete, but I\'m lazy and don\'t want to drill that big hole on the side of the Tupperware.
I also don\'t have anything on hand to seal the hole and worry that the concrete will leak out before installation.
Then I used a few hangers and installed something where I wanted to support the pipe.
I ended up putting a small hole at the end of the Tupperware and passing the hanger through the pipe and then bending at the end to help flush the pipe with the side of the Tupperware.
I then bend a circle of hanging wires, put them under the tube and bend them until it stays at the correct height.
I tried to pause it and some other stuff, but the hanger was not very accommodating in that app and I didn\'t have any rope on hand.
In any case, it finally works fine.
You can see in the picture after the concrete is poured, the end of the street pipe stands a little above the concrete.
This will be positioned directly under the bottom plate of the support light, so when you fix the pipe, make sure it is centered and positioned accordingly.
Then I mixed up the concrete.
What I want to say before this section is that I have never used concrete before.
I took the bag of Portland cement home and looked at the back and was a little scared of all the warnings.
Use your protective equipment here
Do not breathe in dust and protect your skin and eyes.
If you haven\'t used it before, trust me when I say concrete dust is everywhere.
I mixed the concrete in a gallon-sized plastic bag and added water all the time until I got a uniform consistency and all the concrete was wet.
Once it gets mixed up well, I pour it into my mold and be careful not to pour it into the tube.
I ended up having to do two bags in order to fill in the mold I used to the depth I wanted.
To ensure consistency, I mixed a bit inside the mold.
Let the concrete sit down and maintain for a few days.
I left it until the weekend.
At the same time as the specific treatment, you can take some time to prepare the other parts.
To prevent the pipe from Rust, the pipe is coated with oily residue.
I suggest you clean up all the trash unless you want your hands to change color while you are dealing with the lights.
Soap and water can work and work if it\'s really bad, or if there\'s any other way to scatter it on other plumbing projects.
I usually use simple green or plain soap, sacrifice sponges and some old-fashioned elbow grease.
Be careful and take your time.
Occasionally there will be some sharp edges from manufacturing and thread cutting
I cleaned the tube more than once and had small wounds on my fingers.
Once all this is done, if you are worried about corrosion, either paint all your parts or protect it with a transparent enamel.
When you do this, be careful to protect the thread.
I just took mine as a bare metal.
I ended up using galvanized plumbing flooring fittings mainly because I was a lazy and impatient combination and the HD didn\'t have the black plumbing flooring accessories of the size I wanted.
I decided to draw it because it didn\'t match the black tube.
My modified brass valve (
More in a minute)
Obviously doesn\'t match either, so I decided to at least have them match each other and paint them.
I hammer the paint with rustoleum.
Don\'t ask me what color it is because I am color blind, the shelves of HD are in a mess and they don\'t print the color politely on the can.
I chose something that I thought looked good and then did it.
When I was there, I painted my hand Red. (photos 1-3)
As for the valve/switch, I basically stole the design from here.
I used the 1 \"brass gate valve.
I initially tried using the 3/4 valve but I couldn\'t get the switch to fit inside the valve.
Maybe the switch I picked up in HD is too big, or the author\'s suggestion about not using gate valves has some advantages.
In any case, I still need to make some changes even if there is a 1 \"valve.
Photo 4 is the gate after demolition.
The door came out easily.
Once the stem sticks out, it is broken.
Figure 5 shows the valve rod after disassembly.
Then I cut the stem with a hacksaw ,(
Marked in photo 6
Drilling the inside of the actual valve (
Where the door passes)
I have one of the biggest holes that don\'t mess up the thread on the valve.
The drill machine is very useful for this --
I don\'t think I have the patience to do it with a hand drill.
In addition, the right drill bit is very different all over the world.
For some reason, before I remembered that I had a decent kind of hole saw, I tried to drill it out with a shovel at first, which was actually used to cut metal.
It\'s much easier after that.
Once all of this is done, the switch is installed inside the valve.
A small piece of 1/4 \"ID pipe is mounted tight enough on the remaining valve lever and the knob of the rotary switch to allow the valve to start the switch.
I want to fix the switch in the proper position with a little epoxy but it seems tight enough and I really don\'t worry.
After all this work is done, the valve can be reassembled as a functioning electrical switch.
I didn\'t take any photos at this step.
The concrete base can easily slip from the mold without any effort or operation.
From there I used about 60 sandpaper and then cleaned and smooth the concrete surface with about 120 sandpaper.
I don\'t want to polish it or make it smooth so it\'s enough for my purpose.
One of the biggest problems I often see in the comments section of such lamps is safety, especially those things are built by people who are not electricians, are conductive, and ungrounded.
It was a gift for my girlfriend and I decided that I really didn\'t want to accidentally kill her by electric shock, so I was grounding the lights and doing my best to make sure all connections were clean, safe and safe.
If I\'m not grounded, my lights inadvertently become a dead machine when I first plug in.
The hotline was accidentally smashed in the thread of one of the pipes to make every metal part of the lamp live.
If these metal parts are not grounded, I will shock myself when I first grab the knob to turn on the light.
Instead, everything that happens is a fuse circuit, an hour of trouble shooting and disassembly
Assemble the lights.
The moral of the story is, be careful, ground the lights, and if you don\'t know what electrical work you are doing, please get help from the people who do electrical work. A.
First pass the ground wire through the base, place the bottom plate on the concrete base, and mark the position of the mounting hole.
The center hole of the floor should be centered above the outlet point of the power cord (
3/8 \"The elbow is embedded at the end of the concrete).
Then continue electrical.
I want a low profile wall plug, the only thing I can find when I go out and buy the parts.
Just cut off the three outlet banana faucets and then catch the cutting end of the wire all the way through the concrete pipe.
This can be a bit tricky because the pipe diameter of 3/8 is quite narrow compared to the ground wire.
I pulled some rope from the pipe and tried to pull the line with it.
The rope broke as soon as it reached the elbow.
I would like to use a thicker/stronger rope, but this will only make the whole thing bigger and try to get through that tight elbow.
Then I try to separate the wires and go through one at a time.
This seems to work at first.
Passed the first wire without any problem.
But I can never seem to get the second wire to follow it at the bend.
Finally, I repaired the other two wires through one wire.
I wound a bit of tape around the cut wires to make them smoother, and then used a wire that had already passed through to get the entire assembly through.
My Wire was finally pulled out.
I pulled out about 5 feet more wires and touched the light bulb from the tube.
Ground wire (the center one)
Tied to the bottom of the bottom plate.
Cut it short and leave about 5 feet more (
Depending on your lamp design)
The other two wires are fixed in place.
I covered the connection with epoxy to minimize the possibility of corrosion.
Once the epoxy is solidified, I fix the floor to the concrete base.
I drilled a hole for the bolt to fix the ground wire and drilled a path for the ground wire so that the bottom plate would still sit flat on the concrete.
Then I used the masonry screws and screwed the floor with the remaining three mounting holes.
** Here is a short note: for the concrete screws you are using, use the right size drill bit.
I don\'t have the right size.
I drilled one, the size is very large, the hole is too loose.
The next hole I drilled used a size and broke the concrete in half and had to start over.
In the second attempt, I ended up setting up the floor in the unsolidified concrete.
It sinks into the damp concrete, causing a whole bunch of other issues, and I have to fix it on the plane and not take pictures, which is why my final picture doesn\'t exactly match what is shown on this page. B.
Start fishing ** Note: Once your [make sure these are tightened, otherwise your lights will shake and move when you touch it **UNPLUGGED]
The power cord goes through the base, ground properly, the floor is installed well, you can start fishing through the lamp assembly.
As a 3/4 pipe, it should be easy to pass through the wires.
Start by closing the nipple at the pipe 3/4.
It is screwed directly to the floor.
Next, assemble 2 90 degree elbows at each end of the 4 \"tube nipple.
Pass the wire through and screw the assembly to the end of the seat.
This is followed by 6 \"nipples and 1\" x 3/4 \"Hex bushing.
You need to do some electrical work at this point.
Connect the switch to the valve switch assembly.
Make sure there is a wire coming out at each end of the valve.
Use a sharp knife to separate the hot wire on the lamp line from the normal wire.
Cut off the hotline (the smooth one).
Ordinary wires will be Ridge.
Leave about 6 \"wires above the end of the pipe assembly for use.
Remove the end from the bottom of the lamp.
Tighten the wires with loose wires coming out of the bottom side of the valve switch, Weld and heat shrink. (
* Note: This will leave you a terminated wire, so be sure not to forget to attach the heat shrink wire to the wire before welding. )
Pass the rest of the lamp line through the valve switch assembly and do the same with the hot wire at the top of the valve assembly-
Twist, weld, heat shrink.
After the connection is complete, screw the valve in place and make sure the rotary switch is still valid.
My clicks are loud so it\'s easy to test.
Your valve is stuck a lot at this point, so now is a good time to make sure it still works properly.
Continue fishing next step, assemble another \"x 3/4\" Hex bushing at the end of the 8 \"tube nipple.
Pass the wire through and screw it into the valve switch.
Next is another 90 degree elbow and 5 \"tube nipple.
The last part before it began to get weird was the 90 degree elbow.
Once the installation is in place, we start to assemble and actually install the bulb. I digress. . .
The biggest reason to stop me from doing this is how to actually install the bulb.
I have seen a lot of inferior connections in these things.
When they are not shoddy or weak, it seems that most often they do not give good details of how they actually combine it together.
I finally found a few good things to install the bulb socket safely with brass fittings.
I like stability, I don\'t like the combination of brass and iron pipes (
Purely for aesthetic reasons).
I wanted to draw brass fittings to match valves and baseboards, but then I found out that I thought it was a really cool solution to hide brass fittings.
Install the bulb socket next, you need a 3/8 \"male x 1/4\" female bushing and a 1/4 \"male x 1/8\" female bushing.
Twist them together and pass the wires through, with 3/8 \"male threads at the end of the 90 degree Street bushing.
Obviously, this is not how the two parts are combined.
Force the brass fittings to be screwed to the inside of the elbow of the street.
Use a pipe clamp to make sure it really enters there tightly.
FYI, if you do it over and over again like I do, you end up grinding the yellow copper wire, and it doesn\'t fit anymore.
I used epoxy for about 5 minutes on the joint to handle this and make sure it stays the same.
Next, through the lamp nipple 1/2 long (
1/8 \"pipe threaded hollow parts-
Find it in the lighting section along with other fixture kits etc).
Finally, twist the 3/4 \"x 1/2\" reducer onto the street elbow at the top of all brass fittings.
Now you can trim the wires and make sure to leave enough wires to connect to the actual light socket.
Remove the thread head on the socket from the bulb socket.
Continue to pass the wire through and screw the lid onto the lamp nipple inside the reducer.
Hot connection (smooth)
Connect the wire to the brass screw and the normal on the bulb socket (ribbed)
Connect the wire to the silver screw.
Put any excess wires back into the pipe assembly, then push the bulb socket into the lid until it clicks firmly in place.
Install the bulb protector on the bulb socket and install the bulb of your choice.
Put some felt feet at the bottom of the concrete base (
I protected my mine with epoxy because there is nothing that sticks well to the concrete).
Plug in that beautiful piece of iron and concrete and enjoy the atmosphere.