Professional custom lighting manufacturers for hotel and all kinds of engineering lamps.

Stained Glass Door

by:Grade     2020-04-05
Hi, this is my first note and I will try to explain to you how I made a colored glass plate for my inner door porch door.
I bought a house about three years ago, an old Victorian terrace house with lots of potential and opportunities to do something very special to fill it up.
When I moved in, my hallway was very dull and the old plain glass door that separated my lobby looked tired and out of date.
My dad got a bunch of colored glass tools and materials from him a few years ago (
No real result)
So I think I should free up his device and go and update my corridor door.
I have never done anything with glass before I try this project and have no experience using the required tools and methods, but, hey, if you don\'t give it a try, you may miss out on some amazing things, and half the fun is to master new technologies.
I should point out that I can easily have 3-at any time-
Four projects are going (3 currently)
Therefore, it is always difficult to try to accomplish a task completely around work and other commitments, which is no exception.
It took me 8 months from the time I started the project to finish, but in my hallway the finished door looked amazing and people always commented on it and made all the effort
It has to be another 17 years old if I move the house because I will never leave the door.
Hopefully this instruction will encourage others to do colored glass because you can do something beautiful and it\'s not hard to understand.
Unfortunately, when I finished this project, I forgot to take a lot of photos about the process of cutting and welding, so I re-made these photos with broken glass afterwards, trying to explain, I hope they are clear enough that you will understand.
Below is a list of all the items and materials I use to make color glass panels.
Tools and equipment materials si also used a number of other woodworking tools and materials to put the glass into my door frame.
Depending on the glass you made for you, you may need something else, but since this note is mainly focused on the glass, I will put these extra things out there.
It\'s time to start this project at last!
Before you start any actual glass cutting and pattern making, but you need to set up an area that can work, preferably in a flat area with enough space to work.
Mine is an old workbench in my garage and I have a flat mid-fiber board in the lower left corner with two fixed batons on it forming a 90 degree right angle.
This allows me to mark how big the glass panel I have finished needs and draw the borders that all glass needs to be put in.
This also helps when using straight corners as the starting point to place glass shards.
I also have two other free-moving batons, and I can fix the glass pieces in place when welding.
The rest of the table can then be used to mark and cut my glass.
OK, now is the time to start the glass work!
The first thing you need to do is determine how big the finished panel needs to be once all the individual parts are welded together.
It was easy in my case as I just replaced the old panel on my door.
The easiest thing to do here (
If I don\'t break the glass panels when I remove them)
I was going to put it on my flat surface, lean against the baton, and draw it out because I just measured the holes that came out of the glass and were on my mid-fiber board
Once you have the overall size of the panel, the next thing to do is make a template to cut the various glass shapes that make up the panel.
To do this, I use A3 paper cut and stick it together with tape to match the size of the panel I finished. (
If the paper you use is larger than the panel you finished, it\'s easier because you don\'t have to stick them together)
Once you have the template start marking it with the pattern you came up with in the NOW panel.
Since this is the first time I have worked on colored glass products, I chose a simple design.
All I did for this pattern was draw a straight line until I filled the whole template and I didn\'t have any design or color and I just drew something out.
Once I\'m happy with my design and number of pieces, I go back and number each individual shape I \'ve created, which makes it easier to cut them all off.
If you do not number or write to them, or do not have some form of reference, you may encounter difficulties.
If you think of a specific design in advance, it may also be useful to mark each template with the glass color you will use for that template.
Once they are all numbered and/or colored, it\'s time to cut them all out, and for the sake of this design, I cut them along the marked lines with a craft knife and a steel ruler, until all the shapes are separated.
I found that if you put it in your workspace after you cut a piece, in the last panel it helps so that you are less likely to lose the template, and you can see how all the templates are combined.
Now you have all the templates cut and ready to go into the glass.
The type of glass you use here depends entirely on your personal preference, the flat glass is the easiest to cut, and the texture and layered glass are more difficult to cut.
The thickness of the glass also plays a certain role, for all my panels, I use the glass from 3-
6mm, the thicker it is, the harder it is to cut.
For the first panel, I basically used what my dad left in the garage, which is just a mixture of different colors and patterns, but all flat.
Once you have chosen your glass, it is time to cut.
The first thing to do is to put your template (
I started with number 1.
Put it on a piece of glass of your choice, make sure there is a lot of excess glass around the template, or, if you have straight edges on both your template and glass, to save extra cutting time, arrange them.
Now, use the marker pen to draw on the outside of the template, leave the outline of the shape on the glass, and then put the template back in the design to remove the template.
Next, use the glass cutter and the steel ruler to keep it on the line just drawn, start with one edge of the glass, apply pressure to the opposite edge, when you go, you will hear a scraping noise.
But, rate the glass only once and don\'t go back with your cutter or your cut won\'t work.
Now use running pliers with two claw edges on the top surface of the glass, where the score marks, place them at one end of the score mark, the lower jaw is centered, gently apply pressure, until the glass breaks along the score line.
If your score is clean, the glass will break evenly, and if you cross this line again, or if there is no continuous score mark, the glass may not break properly, or you will lose edges and scores and your shape will be destroyed.
Repeat the process in order to make the next cut on the shape, when it is all cut out, place it in the position of the paper template in your design and number it accordingly.
Continue to draw each template on the glass sheet of your choice until you mark and crop all the shapes for the panel.
Now, you should look at what your panel will look like after each paper template you make is replaced by the corresponding glass template.
Don\'t worry, if you break a few pieces and go wrong on the road, all parts of the glass can be used later on for other shapes or items, and any scrap like that your wound remains, because you never know when these wounds will come in handy.
Believe me, I broke a lot of glass when I made the first panel, because initially I didn\'t have a running clamp and tried to manually break the glass with my hands, resulting in a lot of broken points on my triangle, there are also many setbacks.
That\'s why I can\'t stress enough about the importance of running pliers that make everything easier and cleaner.
When cutting a shape, if you find it too difficult or embarrassing to get a clean cut without breaking, consider making this shape with two separate pieces of glass.
I have some shapes throughout the project, like my dinosaur body, trying to cut it off from a piece of glass is just the beginning, so I cut my template in half, it is then made of two pieces of glass.
If you\'re struggling, there\'s usually a way to go, just play and play until you come up with a solution that works for your design.
Now that you \'ve cut all the shapes off, start the process of fully connecting them.
These are two methods, one is made of lead, which includes stretching and pulling lead.
The other one I use here is copper foil.
Both have their respective advantages and look just as good after completion, I chose the copper method as this is the first time I have tried this type of thing and it seems to be the simplest at the beginning. (
Also my dad has all the gear ready waiting to collect dust
Looking at the items you put on the table, you may notice that they are not all put together tightly, and there are gaps between some things.
Don\'t worry, first of all, we need to remove any sharp edges or fragments of the glass from the cutting stage that can cause these gaps.
The easiest way is to use a glass grinder because it allows the glass to be flat in shape, the edges to grind smoothly, remove any sharp edges, or grind any mistakes you may have made to cut
I have a water bath tank under my grinder, which will lubricate the glass when it is worn out, making the whole process smoother and easier to grind.
If you don\'t have a glass grinder, another option here may be a fine metal file, or a Dremel type tool with stone wheel attachments, be careful not to break the glass in this way, also don\'t cut your hand with sharp glass, recommend gloves, because when I work on the panel, there are a lot of red at different stages.
Once you\'re happy with all your shapes, the edges place them on the table again, and any gaps you \'ve ever had should now disappear, or at least minimize.
By no means all of my panels fit as closely as a puzzle, just due to the cutting of the shape and my own limitations, there are some flaws, after all this is my first time out, I am very happy at this stage, I have a window-like thing, also, welding can hide many sins and make the rough cut look good as well.
Okay, knock it off!
As I explained earlier, it is better to set the width of the foil to double the thickness of the selected glass, because the overlap of the foil on the surface of the glass determines the width of the finished solder joint.
First make sure your glass is clean and free of dust, if like me you mark the glass with a marker pen when cutting, use some white wine or other detergent to remove it, then dry the glass with a clean rag or kitchen roll.
The easiest way I can find is to open 20-
Foil adhesive tape 30 cm (
Don\'t cut it off the roll)
Peel off the protective backing and then start with a corner of my glass, extend the foil around the outer edge of the glass until you return to the starting point.
Then cut the foil off the roll and leave a bit of overlapping tail glued to the starting point.
Now, again, turn around your shape and fold the side of the tape to each side of the glass surface, applying a lot of pressure when doing so, this way the foil will stick well to your glass, paying special attention to the corners where the foil will overlap.
One trick I \'ve learned here is to use a piece of wood or a marker pen and something like that to run on the foil to get the uniform pressure you need and stick the foil firmly(
Since then, I know there is a special tool called Fid, but to be honest, my marker is also working well with no extra cost).
Continue to frustrate all of your remaining pieces of glass, which can take some time, which is sometimes a complex process depending on the size and complexity of your shape.
Once it\'s done, though when all these rough cut edges are placed on the table, your window looks better and becomes a beautiful straight shiny edge.
Don\'t worry, if you\'re a bit of a tape out of place, like in one of my photos, you can trim it off with a craft knife or hide it later with tin paste
Now that all your glass shapes look clean, it\'s time to combine them together and be the window you\'re done with, exciting!
After installing on my first panel, I found that the best way to do this is to build the simple workstation outlined in step 2.
This allows you to keep all the glass together well and tightly, and avoid movement that can lead to gaps between the shapes of the glass.
Unfortunately I didn\'t take pictures at every stage of each panel, but you can see it in the image of my other window (the No 17 one)
Frustrated, sitting in this workstation, the batons around put together everything that needs to be fought closely.
Now open your soldering iron and let it heat, instead of welding this window right away, we weld it in stages.
The first thing we have to do is Weld only where the corners of the glass shape meet, so in your window, each point where two or more corners meet, A small amount of solder paste will be applied to the area.
Make sure you only use the minimum amount of stuff and clear anything extra, just like when you apply a weld, if there is too much flux, it will boil with heat, causes bubbles and gaps to appear in the solder joints, which not only weakens it, but also does not look very good.
If you are using liquid flux, then you can handle as many joints as you can easily at a time, because if you try to handle all joints at a time, this will disappear when you are done.
I used the plumber flux and it worked fine and it was gel consistency so I didn\'t have this problem.
Once all your joints have been streamed, put your soldering iron and welding options (I used K grade)
When your soldering iron is located on your first joint, introduce the soldering iron into the iron tip before you see the soldering iron start to melt, run the melted solder paste on the copper foil at your joint with a stable hand, use the iron to keep it hot and liquid, and observe it flowing evenly on the surface of the copper sheet and start
Before proceeding to the next joint, make sure all the glass pieces are welded together at this time.
Repeat the process until the places where all corners meet are welded together.
In theory, now you should be able to pick up your window without any loose pieces of glass falling off.
Please don\'t try this as I hate the fact that your work shows up on the floor at this later stage.
You can now go back with your flow and cover all the remaining copper joints on the edge of the window and on the outer edge.
Again, you can handle as many joints as possible only at any time.
Using the same process as before starting at one end of the edge or shape, introduce solder, melt it, and then slowly follow the copper joint and the iron feed in the solder bar at a uniform speed, this way it will flow into the joint and you will never see any exposed copper foil again.
If you have any air bubbles with excessive flow, don\'t worry, just press the iron on it again
Melt the solder and work again along the joint until all the bubbles disappear.
If you have any solder on your glass that you don\'t want to let it cool and harden, then it will be easy to erase and any joint that you are not satisfied with can be simply re-done
Heat it with an iron and then run it again to make them even.
On my first window, I had a couple of pointed areas on the solder, I took the iron off and there were some bubbles with excess flow aids, but that was predictable, iron can easily correct these problems.
Just like anything, the more you practice, the faster you play, the more confident you are to do bigger areas and more complex shapes.
Once all your joints are done and cooled, you should now have a window that looks good, no copper foil showing anywhere, but a smooth silver Joint running between each glass shape.
However, we only finished half of the welding and you now need to carefully flip the window and weld it on the back.
When you open the window, you may notice that some of the welding in front has passed through the joint, which is OK because you can re-
Heat this up and use it to hit the joint here.
Since the shape of this stage is all connected together, there is no need to weld the joints where all corners meet first on the back, we can simply move on, start welding is being shown anywhere in copper foil.
Starting from the front, the process is exactly the same, first of all melting all your joints, wiping off the excess, then starting with any soldering tin, then passing through the front and placing the iron, wait for the solder to melt, then run along that joint and introduce more welding for each joint and edge as needed until you can no longer see any copper foil.
Leave your window for a few minutes and let the solder paste cool and harden, you have now finished your first stained glass window panel and should be able to pick up the whole thing without any problem. Hooray!
At this stage, your window panels can be very dirty because of the flux, finger marking, welding, and general dust and dirt.
The best thing to do is clean it up with a sponge or rag and some warm soapy water, and if you have any solder on the glass you don\'t want, you can also brush it with a hard brush.
You may be fairly robust at this stage as your window should be fairly stable and stay good.
Dry it with a cloth or some kitchen roll and you can now see that your work is brilliant.
Check all your joints and edges here to see if there\'s something you\'re not happy with, it\'s a good idea, if you find a joint you don\'t like, just heat the soldering iron again, and run along the joint until the soldering iron melts, then you can re-heat the soldering iron
Finish it until you are satisfied.
Your panel is now finished and if you lift it to the light source you will see all the different colors and textures of your glass come to life.
When I finished each panel, I put a light behind them to see how each panel looks and appreciate my achievements.
For this specific project I need 5 colored glass panels to complete my door so now I have a panel under my belt and ride high, I am direct when designing the second panel
As you can see from the images of each window panel I have completed, I am getting more and more complicated trying to cut various different shapes and curves.
Since the first panel is just an array of triangles, all of my cuts are straight lines, very direct, but now things get harder and have a higher chance of breakage, plus, at this point, I used most of the glass I got from my dad and had to get more resources.
Unfortunately for me, my nearest glass supplier is more than 100 miles away, and during the course of this project I had to go back and look for the material three times.
Yes, there are a lot of online retailers of glass and supplies, but I like to see the glass and understand what it will look like with plenty of light, the pictures you have on the site and the glass of their choice as well as the patterns I found are well worth it, especially the unique layered glass they make themselves. (
For anyone interested, this is a place called El Segal Kansa Craft and they have everything you need).
As I said, my panels are now getting more and more complicated and need to be cut and assembled together.
Instead of looking at how each panel is made like the first one, I will learn some techniques I use to make more difficult cuts and shapes.
The process of frustration and welding is the same, no matter what design you come up with, the more complex pattern only takes longer, so, if you can foil and weld a simpler window like my triangular window, you can foil and weld anything.
Okay, let\'s start cracking.
My second window is my sun pattern, and as you might have guessed, the most difficult shape to cut here is the circle in the middle.
You can buy a special round cutting tool I have bought however, I did not have this kit when I made this window, so I\'ll tell you how I made it using the device listed above.
Like all the windows I did for the first time, I numbered and cropped all the individual paper templates, and from here I transferred the shape to the glass by drawing the round template.
Once I draw this circle on the glass of my choice, the first thing is to score around the outline of this circle, I slowly rotate the glass sheet with one hand, pull the cutter along this line with the other hand.
Don\'t lift the cutter before you finish the full circle, one easier way is to score with something like wooden blanks, glass or plates.
However, even though you score, make sure you score only once and don\'t cross your score line.
The next thing to do is make a series of straight cuts along the edge of the circle to remove all the excess glass, which will give your circle several ridges on the edge.
These ridges are removed using a combination of a broken clamp and a glass grinder.
Where you have a larger Ridge, place the broken pliers on the curved chin side on the ridge, and the end of the chin is right in front of your round cut line, hold the glass firmly with one hand and carefully pull the pliers down with the other until the ridge breaks along the fraction line you previously cut, for any other Ridge you have, repeat this and don\'t worry if it doesn\'t fall off all, we can now use the grinder to remove the remaining smaller ridges and defects.
Place your glass on the grinding machine table, the spindle rotates gently, introduces your workpiece, and when you have ridges and glass that exceed the round score mark, enter and rotate the glass to grind to that score mark.
Depending on the quality and thickness of your grinder cutting head, glass, this can be a slow process, just like in my case, go on until all you have left is a beautiful one
Believe it or not, my first attempt was successful and I was very worried in advance because I only bought enough yellow glass for the parts I needed and there was no error.
But I took my time and was very happy with the results and you can do it too if I can do it.
The rest of the shape of this window is a very straight cut, like my first window, which is the only difference between the \"light\" in my design and the sun.
To mark your shape on the selected glass again, do any direct cutting first.
Now hand-write the score on your curved line and take the broken pliers (
Bend the jaw side)
When the chin reaches your score, Mark pulls down and breaks and removes the small curved glass.
I repeat this in every place where the light touches the sun.
Tidy up any rough edges and breaks on the grinder so all your parts can be assembled together well and now ready to defeat and weld again.
The rest of my panels are cut and made with the technology I have already explained.
However, as you can see, some of the other panels have more curves and complex parts, and the technology is indeed slightly different, and different kinds of glass require other methods.
This section will cover these remaining methods I use so that you can get the same result if you give it a try.
The first and simplest one is the 3D element that I added to the last window, the one with flowers, yes, it\'s the dinosaur, because why don\'t I want the dinosaur inside.
My 3D glass is just a few large glass beads in the location of the flower center.
These are the things you use to decorate vases and other things in your home, keep them the same as the rest of the flat glass, and run copper foil around the outer rim at the widest of the beads or selected 3D elements.
The other glass can then be cut to match the profile of this shape and welded together in the same way as the normal glass.
These beads on my last window add another element to make it stand out and add the overall effect to make it look more impressive.
Long sweep curves of areas like ocean and beach in my beach 17 window (I live at No.
On the coast)
The shape of the glass makes a big flow curve compromise.
These are directly cut, using the same method as direct cutting.
Once you mark the curve on the glass, start at one end, and use your cutter to get as close to the other end as possible along this line, now use the running plow (
Two claw sides on top surface)
Concentrate the pliers on the grading line and apply stable pressure.
Your glass will break along the curved line, and you can grind two separate parts of the glass if necessary before defeating.
The deeper curved cut has covered cutting the shallow curve on my sun-shining window, but on the remaining curves, some are steeper and deeper.
For these cuts, the process is basically the same as before, except that we remove a small piece of glass at a time.
Mark your glass in the usual way and cut any straight or flowing curve cut first.
Now, where deeper curves are marked, mark some graduation lines as curves far away from parallel to it.
The best way to describe it is to dig a hole. you don\'t remove all the soil at once, but slowly dig down until you reach the depth you need. The same applies here.
Mark a shallow curve above the original mark, score a score at a time, and then break the glass with broken pliers until you are close enough to the final curve you want.
Rate this mark, use pliers for the last time, or use a grinder if possible to get the desired final shape.
In my sample image I marked 5 cuts but I managed to do it in 3 cuts depending on how big the curve is and how confident you are.
On some of my windows, such as beach scenes, on glass for sand, straight/flowing curves are cut on thicker and layered glass, the sky and the ocean are a unique layered glass made up of many different colors, so the surface finish is rough and very thick.
To cut this piece of glass, it is not enough to use pliers, because you will break the glass and destroy your shape.
The method is slightly different in order for me to get the shape I want.
Mark and mark your glass first, because you will usually be extra careful when scoring here, because the glass is rough, it is difficult to keep the cutter on the pen mark.
Keep the cutter as close as possible close to the cutting wheel and move very slowly from start to finish along the pen line.
Find a soft surface or use a mat/towel once you have a score mark (
I used the old carpet.
Place your score glass panel face down on a soft surface (
Mark the score on the soft surface of the Touch)
Now you will hit the glass along the opposite side of your score mark.
I hit the glass with my glass cutter as it has a brass finial at the end of the handle, ideal for this process.
If you have different knives, the handle of the screwdriver or the shaft of the small hammer can also work.
As needed, be careful to tap along the glass, using a heavier tap, what you are looking for is a crack that appears along the same path as your score mark running on the other side.
It effectively pulls down your score from top to bottom.
There are times when you get a thorough break with this method, the two glass halves are separated.
If not, carefully flip the glass back when there is a crack in your bottom, now use the running tongs to finish and break.
I would suggest tapping on a soft surface, just like you didn\'t get a chance to break the glass panel with a tap, because there\'s nothing to absorb the intense impact.
As usual, clean up the breakage on the grinder with layered and textured glass, using this method you are more likely to have rough edges.
You can also use this tapping method on other cuts you make, such as the smaller deep curves and sharp angles that may be present before using the broken pliers, because this will help to reduce the power required when using the breaker and reduce the risk of unwanted tongs. OK, we\'re there right now and I think I \'ve explained everything I \'ve done in order to be able to design and cut all my panels.
As I said, it took me more than 8 months to get it done, so it\'s hard to remember all the details when writing this article.
I now have my 5 colored glass plates and I am very happy with how they all come out and the only thing left to do now is to put them in my door frame.
Now, since this note is mostly about the production of the glass panel, I won\'t take a long time to understand how I can put it back together as the ins and outs of the door, here are the basic steps I take from completing all the panels to having the work door again: for my door handle, I want something that complements my glass work, so after I look around, I found the old Victorian blue glass door knob that perfectly matched it.
I paired this with some of the old brass door panels I found online (
Sadly, these two are from the United States).
When they were on the door, it was finally done, and I could finally, after eight months of suffering, again block the draft from the front door.
Although it took me 8 months to finish this project, the wait and all the efforts are worth it, so far this is my favorite work in my house, everyone commented on it and couldn\'t believe I did it myself.
If I don\'t have a job and other commitments after starting this project, I may be able to do all the work in a month, but you can\'t plan for these things.
I ended up hoping to replace all the regular glass panels around with stained glass panels as well, but now my door is OK.
I hope you enjoyed reading my first instruction sheet and hope it will give you some ideas or confidence to try it yourself, remember before this project, I have never used colored glass in my life!
Below are some photos of the finished door and each individual glass panel, thank you for reading the large amount of text above and I hope to see you soon on another instruction manual.
Custom message
Chat Online 编辑模式下无法使用
Chat Online inputting...