Wood LED Desk Lamp
In this structure I will show how I built it.
In addition, the dimmers I made can be used with any LED light below 20 watts, so even if you are not interested in this type of light, you can use it at will to control any LED light you want.
Material: Tools: This lamp also includes a dimmer, which is optional as not all people are proficient in electronics and the material has been separated for simplicity.
Part of the total cost of this project is about $15.
* You can also use high power LED, which may be more effective than the LED light strip.
I started with 5 points. 5 by 25cm (or 2,2x9. 8in )
A piece of aluminum, which will be used as a radiator for the LED strip, which will be attached to it.
With the help of the router, I cut a groove on the side of the wood strip, which has a total length of about 70 centimeters.
If you don\'t have a router, you can stick a thin strip of wood with glue to achieve the same effect.
The depth of the groove is 4mm, almost halfway through the strip.
I then cut the 45 degree angle with the Mitter box to create a rectangular frame for the aluminum strip.
Place the plate on the groove and mark it where it should be cut, which ensures a perfect fit.
Before gluing the frame, I sanded the surface that the belt would encounter with 100 sandpaper to make the bonding stronger, and I didn\'t want to sprinkle too much sand because it was easy to break the perfect angle cutting.
I found it difficult to clip these pieces together, so I stuck it with tape and it worked really well.
I just put these pieces on the tape and make sure they stick together correctly to get something extreme in touch.
Then I applied glue and folded the pieces into shape.
Before doing so, sanding is important as the wood fibers step in and weaken the seams.
I used four small round wood screws on both sides to fix the joints.
In order to make the arm of the lamp, I used two 70 cm wooden strips and I cut them in half and made a total of four wooden strips, each 35 cm, and then, I use a washer of the appropriate size to draw the area to be cut off and the hole to be drilled with a pencil.
I used my homemade router table to wrap the tip of the note around and some rough sandpaper had the same result.
It\'s better to clip all the pieces together so they all have the same round edges.
This is also the case when making holes, which reduces the chance of misplacement.
I prefer the drill but I don\'t have the drill so I use the hand drill as perpendicular to the surface of the strip as possible.
A pair of bars used to support the LED frame, forming the upper part of the arm, to do this, I drilled a hole in the frame 1/4 and used the wooden screws to connect the wooden bars to the frame.
The holes of the bars must be large enough to allow them to rotate freely, and there is enough friction between the bars and the frame for easy adjustment.
The lower part of the arm must be structurally reinforced, so I added two pieces between the bars and the total width of the arm must be the same as the LED support frame, as shown in figure 4.
The reinforcement is placed on one side at a rate of 5 centimeters, and on the other side as close as possible to the hole, because to adjust the arm, pressure must be applied from the outside to create enough friction for the structure to remain still.
The steel bars are glued together with some length rebar bars, pushing the outer bars to them.
By drilling into the four holes of the reinforcement with a belt, two screws are added on each side.
In order for the base to be cut into a square of 15x15 cm, the width of the small projection is the same as the inner part of the lower arm in addition to the small projection.
This outstanding is cut with a certain error and polished down to ensure tight fit with the arm.
The router has carved two holes that will be used to hide the circuit, and later, route a channel between the two holes to pass the wires in the circuit to the controller.
Two 45 ° holes were also drilled to allow the cable to enter the engraving hole of the placement circuit through the wood slot.
Using the lower part of the arm as a guide, drilling holes at the bumps, I make sure the arm is completely vertical before drilling, as shown in figure 4.
This wood is too clear for my taste, so I decided to stain it with some homemade copper based stains.
Before dyeing, I polished all the pieces and made sure to remove all ridges and defects with 100 sandpaper and then leave a smooth surface finish with 400 sandpaper.
Once all the parts of the lamp are smooth and dyed, the screw bar can be cut to a certain length and placed on each side of the lower arm section so that the lamp can be finally assembled.
To tighten the part of the arm, I used the safety nut and the safety washer.
When changing the position of the arm, the safety nut does not roll off, and the safety gasket ensures that the nut is not too tight and maintains constant pressure over time.
At the same time, this makes the ARM assembly very reliable and easy to adjust, and the arm can be moved to any position and kept locked due to friction.
The brightness of the wood makes it better than any other metal light I \'ve used before, and after adjusting it too many times it finally breaks.
I added a simplified drawing on how to put everything together so you can visualize it better.
The LED strip is cut into 25 cm parts and then glued to the aluminum plate, which is 1 cm wide, so 5 of them are enough to cover the entire aluminum plate.
Be sure to clean the plate with alcohol before sticking it.
To avoid the possible shorts on the plate, a little tape was added to the extreme.
All negative terminals and all positive terminals are then welded separately, and when it comes to wire lights, a hole will be made through the frame to pass through the wire, and the wire will be welded to the LEDs.
After the LED board is made, use some glue to assemble it on the frame and remove the excess part with a napkin.
When the glue is set, it is recommended to leave some weight on it.
You can use this circuit to add a dimmer to your light if you want, it\'s a very simple and effective circuit that anyone with soldering iron can make, it is based on the popular 555 integrated circuit.
The circuit uses pulse width modulation to change the time the LED stays lit for a certain period of time, which makes the LED lights look dim, but they actually turn on and off thousands of times per second.
In this case, the dimmer works at about 2 kHz, so there is no annoying flicker.
I \'ve designed and tested the circuit so you don\'t have to do that, even with full load all the components are running very cold.
You can download the Eagle file if you want to print the board.
Material: You also need a switch to turn the power on and off.
If you decide not to use the dimmer, you just need to weld the positive line from the power supply to the switch, from the switch to the other wire from the LED positive and the power supply negative to the LED negative.
If you have decided to use the dimming circuit provided in this manual, the positive line will also be welded to the switch, but must be welded from the switch to the VCC of the circuit, as shown in the schematic diagram (Step 10).
The positive pole of the LED will be connected to the LED, and its negative pole will be connected to the LED-
This is the drain of the MOSFET transistor.
The negative or GND will be connected to the negative wire from the power supply.
47 k potentiometer intermediate lead must be connected to pin 7 on 555, the lateral lead is connected to the diode, it doesn\'t matter which way around, connecting them in one way or another will only change the direction in which the potentiometer must be turned in order to increase or decrease brightness.
To wire the lights, I used some of the wires that I had laid, I cut off 1 m of them, and with the help of the drill bit, I twisted them, to make them look cleaner I wrap the already wrapped wires around a bar and install them on the lights to connect the LEDs to the circuit.
When the arm is extended, the double coil allows the wire to reach out.
Several screws are all you need to keep the wires connected to the light arm.
The holes of the switch and potentiometer are drilled, the wires pass through a small groove on the bottom, and the circuit board is fixed in place with some glue.
The switch and potentiometer are installed in place and welded in place.
For the switch, I use a file to sculpt the rectangle to make it fit.
For the PSU, I will use the wall body of 12 volts, 2 amps.
Be sure to check if the number of amps on the wall is higher than the number of amps you need.
The lights are done and it\'s time to do some testing and take some nice photos :)
As you can see, the lights are on and the total power of the 75 LED is about 14 watts, which is why I use dimmers.
This light will hurt my eyes very quickly, and with dimmers, I can use the right light for each situation, saving energy and vision.
Thank you very much for watching and wish you a happy stay.